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authorDmitry V. Sokolov <ssloy@users.noreply.github.com>2020-02-21 01:15:52 +0300
committerGitHub <noreply@github.com>2020-02-21 01:15:52 +0300
commitdad40306262c444976b0c3769992ba6cd59b9888 (patch)
tree4fa2be850d1e33db22ec5048405ed98e39dfba27
parent80042ec96c998fc88868ec29b8602307d67fe5f1 (diff)
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@@ -95,6 +95,12 @@ Once the sensing unit is okay, try to find a good resistor value for the LEDs to
Note that it is important to put a heatshrink around both the LEDs and the phototransistors to cut off parasitic lights.
Moreover, with heatshrink it fits neatly into the eyesockets. When soldering the 2n3904, I recommend to solder first the center pin, and only then the side pins, otherwise it is too easy to create hard-to-remove solder bridges. Personally I find these little basterds harder to solder than the microcontroller itself (but I am bad at soldering!).
+If you do to not have an oscilloscope, that is okay, you can do it with a couple of debugging LEDs, check the blue LEDs on the following video:
+
+![](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/ssloy/penny/master/doc/proximity-sensor.gif)
+
+For a more distant obstacles the LEDs will be less bright.
+
If you fail to assemble the proximity sensor, or simply dislike it, there are plenty of options:
* You can use isf471 instead of the phototransistors and all the 2n3904 circuitry.