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| author | Dmitry V. Sokolov <ssloy@users.noreply.github.com> | 2020-02-19 16:06:21 +0300 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | GitHub <noreply@github.com> | 2020-02-19 16:06:21 +0300 |
| commit | da4138e1643e5fe5cdf046d96756a3108f58986c (patch) | |
| tree | 2e382fdf1fbc4e877e08c5a1731eb02a6060e42b | |
| parent | f941bcf81475ed0b499fd2910ac0f9379858e079 (diff) | |
Update README.md
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 2 |
1 files changed, 1 insertions, 1 deletions
@@ -83,7 +83,7 @@ Then light up the LED with a CR2032 or a similar battery, pand put it against th Verify that the voltage on the Q3 and Q4 collector pins drops as expected. Once the sensing unit is okay, try to find a good resistor value for the LEDs to obtain the behaivour you see on the above video. Note that it is important to put a heatshrink around both the LEDs and the phototransistors to cut off parasitic lights. -Moreover, with heatshrink it fits neatly into the eyesockets. +Moreover, with heatshrink it fits neatly into the eyesockets. When soldering the 2n3904, I recommend to solder first the center pin, and only then the side pins, otherwise it is too easy to create hard to remove solder bridges. Personally I find these little basterds harder to solder than the microcontroller itself (but I am bad at soldering!). If you fail to assemble the proximity sensor, or simply dislike it, there are plenty of options: |